David North, Head of
People and Wildlife
There are many reasons to love our
best known, oldest and most visited nature reserve.
Here are
just some of them!
I have distilled
these from the comments left by visitors at our recent
Cley Marshes: A wild
vision screen-show in Norwich, from the wonderful and moving comments send in
by the many generous people who have donated to our Cley Marshes land purchase
appeal and from interviews with artists, birders and local people at Cley
nature reserve.
· A sense of wildness
 |
| NWT Cley Marshes, photo by David Tipling |
One word that comes up
time and time again about Cley is wildness. The landscape of marshes and
reed beds, shingle and sand, sky and sea, this edgeland of Norfolk running from
Salthouse through Cley to Blakeney Point is hugely valued for its
wildness.
Some comments talked about it
being one of the last wild, natural landscapes in England.
Our warden, Bernard Bishop, might be
horrified because of course Cley Marshes is also a highly managed and created
environment: the scrape pools dug with bulldozers and the reed bed only here
because of constant years of toil and
management.
However a sense of wildness
is clearly something highly valued about this precious coastal landscape and something
we must pay regard to in caring for it.
Too many signs, the wrong sort of hides or pathways, could all put this
at risk.
Wildness of course is not so much
out there as inside us:
in our
perception. In our hearts. Something we feel and experience; an emotional
response to something special and wonderful about this place. This
feeling of wildness can descent on a place with a storm,
the fall of night, a peregine’s stoop or a curlews lonely call.
We value places like Cley for touching us
with their wildness.
· Changing light
 |
| Storm approaching, photo by Tasha North |
Another quality that was mentioned by many people, and by
all the artists that we interviewed, was the special light at Cley: constantly
changing and something about it capable of inspiring people.
If you have ever sat looking out the window
of our visitor centre at Cley you will know how the amazing view over the
reserve constantly changes with the changing light.
This changing light can create some really memorable
moments: the reedbed turning to fiery
pink on winter evenings as the sun sets, storms approaching off the sea, and if
you are an early bird some amazing
dawns.
One of the best ways of perceiving the way the light changes
is to watch reflections in the water. Stand on the bridge over the catchwater
dyke and watch the reed reflections, so many colours in the water. We talk about reflecting on things – well Cley is a great
place for reflections. Maybe it takes an artist to see things in their true
colours but any visit to Cley adds some colour to life.
· Rare birds
 |
| The first Pacific Swift, photo by Julian Bhalero |
Of course Cley’s other name is the ‘Birdwatcher's Mecca’
and lots of people did mention seeing
rarities as one of the great Cley attractions.
Way back in Victorian times, when the naturalists saying was
‘What’s hit is history, what’s missed is mystery’, Cley and Blakeney Point were already known for
rare birds. Perhaps we should forgive these early naturalist-collectors
as they didn’t have the modern optics, field-guides, scopes and pagers we take for granted today. So the first Pallas’s Warbler for Britain was
shot with dust shot and then stuffed and many lesser rarities, bluethroats,
wrynecks, shrikes and barred warblers were collected in this area. Probably, along with Fair Isle in the north,
the Scillies in the south and Skokholm Island to the west, no other area in the
UK can claim as many ‘firsts for Britain’ as Cley and Blakeney Point.
Rarities continue of
course to attract many visitors – the Western Sandpiper a couple of years ago,
the Wilson’s Phalarope just a few weeks ago,
the pallid swift a few days ago. There
is always the chance of the unexepected at Cley. So part of the meaning of Cley
is its long history of attracting rare birds.
· Cley’s sounds
Cley has a soundscape as well as a landscape and like the
landscape this changes with the seasons. People frequently mentioned how important to their experience of Cley were
its distinctive sounds.
The wind in reeds, the sounds of waves breaking on shingle,
the murmurings of Brent Geese on the marshes, the clamour of pink-feet
overhead, skylarks singing in a blue summer sky over the shingle ridge, a
redshank’s warning as it flies out of the marsh. Cley has so many wild voices.
If we lose the booming of bitterns or the calling of cuckoos
over Cley Marshes do we lose part of its meaning? How much does the noise of more small planes overhead
or increased traffic along the coast road impinge on this meaning of Cley?
· Wild geese and ducks
 |
| Pink-feet skeins |
Wild geese, perhaps unsurprisingly, were mentioned a lot.
So flocks of geese and ducks have to be part
of the meaning of Cley Marshes.
The
pink-feet
arriving in September and
October, gabbling their way across Cley’s skies, their skeins writing
calligraphy over the marshes are now one of the icons of wildness at
Cley.
Approaching the hides in winter and hearing the whistling calls of
wigeon.
Looking though the hide flaps
and enjoying those amazing colours of teal, elegant pintail, or watching
shelducks with beaks lowered hovering their way through the mud is all part of
the Cley experience.
These birds also
mark the changing seasons.
Flocks of
ducks and geese are one of the winter specials of Cley. Not to be missed!
· The place to watch marsh harriers
Another bird which has become an icon for Cley is the marsh
harrier.
.jpg) |
| Marsh harrier, photo by Daren Mulley |
In spring and summer they are ever-present – drifting on V
shaped wings over the marshes,
causing
pandemonium when they fly over the scrapes. People described how memorable
seeing their first ever marsh harrier at Cley was and having fantastic views of
food passes in April and May with birds grappling talons in mid-air. Special
sights, perhaps glimpsed only for moments, but
forming a memory that will last a lifetime.
Cley continues to play an important part in the success
story of this species. Don’t take these
amazing birds for granted, rarer as breeding birds than golden eagles, they are
a special part of the Cley scene and
part of the magic of its reedy and watery landscape.
· Big skies – a sense of perspective
 |
| Clouds at Cley, photo by Barry Madden |
The sky can be a dominant feature at Cley. Stand on the
coastal shingle ridge and look inland
. The
marshes and visitor centre ,even the villages of Cley and Salthouse and the
Cromer ridge behind, can all be dwarfed by Cley’s huge skies.
Towering cumulus clouds in infinite blue
skies.
Dark storm clouds that approach
and pass by. Time spent cloud watching is never wasted!
When we spend time in this very open landscape we can feel
very small and nature feel very big.
Lots of people commented on this sense of perspective and how walking at
Cley helps make sense of the world, quite literally giving us a sense of awe
and wonder at the sheer scale of the landscape.
· Wader flocks
You can’t talk about Cley without talking waders. Flocks of waders performing aerial
spectacles, golden plover spiralling onto the scrape pools, long-billed black-tailed godwits probing the
mud. Waders bring a touch of the
international to Cley, passing through from distant lands on almost
unimaginable migration journeys. These
birds are beautiful to watch with their great migration journeys inspiring
wonder and awe. More than most birds waders bring a touch of wildness on their
wings. We are touched by their beauty.
· A place to walk in nature
 |
| Cley beach, photo by Barry Madden |
Not everyone who comes to Cley, to the visitor centre or the
beach, comes to see wildlife.
Many
just come to walk. One of our challenges is
how to cater for this audience without compromising wildlife protection.
But
people chose to come here to walk at Cley for a reason: Cley makes
people feed good. Time spent outdoors in wild places increases well-being.
Gives us literally a breath of fresh air and
provides us with a natural health service.
Try it and blow those cares away with Cley’s wild salty winds.
Avocets and breeding birds
In spring and summer people come here to watch the
spectacle of breeding birds. May was
frequently mentioned as a favourite month. Black and white avocets with their ‘kloot- kloot’ calls on the
scrape. The opportunity to watch all
their amazing behaviours from display and
mating to nest building and incubation.
A chance to watch fluffy chicks being brooded safe under the adults on Cley’s
Scrape pools.If you visit Cley’s reed-thatched hides in spring some of these special sights can almost be guaranteed.
 |
| Avocets, photo by Steve Bond |
Avocets are another of Cley’s
great conservation success stories.
Their return to Norfolk in 1977 to breed at
Cley after 150 years absence from Norfolk and then with our protection increase
in numbers and spread north along the coast is a wonderful conservation success
story of which Cley can be proud.
Today of course in spring and summer people also come to
watch spoonbills at Cley. The start of hopefully another conservation success
story.
· The timeless landscape
The landscape is mentioned as often as wildlife as a reason
that people value Cley Marshes.
The
quality of views between Cley
and Salthouse.
From the famous East Bank you can look west
over Cley’s reedbeds to the towers of Blakeney Church or turn around and look
east to Salthouse Church. A much loved landscape made
up of many elements: its history,
its wildlife and its habitats.
 |
| The new land between Cley and Salthouse Marshes, by Barry Madden |
Yes, I know that was actually 11 reasons to love Cley
Marshes, but in reality there are as many reasons as there are visitors. Visit and you will discover your own personal reason to love this living
landscape. If you are lucky you too will
have a magic moment, a fleeting glimpse that becomes a lifetime’s memory. But be warned: Cley is highly addictive. Once you come to love this place without
doubt you will return time and time again.
That’s what our visitors tell us. Some, visiting from distant places have even moved house to come and
live close by.
I believe we can learn a lot by understanding what it is
that people value about Cley Marshes. At
NWT, our work involves
providing opportunities for people to connect with nature. To inspire people to
make decisions that benefit wildlife.
It’s
only when people gain a personal love of wildlife, when wildlife and wild
places have real meaning to individuals, that people will take action to
protect nature.
One of our great challenges is to ensure that even in this
modern world, with all its pressures, when more people live in cities and move
with jobs from place to place, even country to country, that a new generation
still builds this deep affection for place.
Is there a risk that the next generation will have less opportunity to
build this connection with place and
with nature?
Part of our work at NWT is
to make sure a new generation also comes to appreciates all that Cley
means.
To inspire a new generation to
fall in love with Cley’s wildness, its sounds, its special light and its birds.
The next few years will be exciting ones at Cley as through
the recent
Heritage Lottery Fund award and the our very
successful appeal we now have an amazing opportunity create a vibrant new
education centre, the
Simon Aspinall Wildlife Education centre, and to ensure
that young people have the opportunity to discover for themselves new meanings
for and old but ever-changing reserve.
To develop their sense of awe and wonder. To discover their own special moments at Cley which will become
their lifetime, and perhaps life-changing, memories.