Ovington Ramblers: Buxton Heath and Holt Lowes NWT Reserves

On 22 November 2016 - we fulfilled our ambition to walk every possible NWT owned or managed public access reserve in their 90th Anniversary year!

Our first stop was at Buxton Heath, six miles north of Norwich just off the B1149.  By the time we arrived the early morning drizzle had ceased and the sun was pushing through the clouds.  We began our walk to the right of the car park through low lying heather and scattered gorse bushes in full flower.  There were lots of different mushrooms to see and the moss in all its emerald glory was a stunning sight.

A 'Cromer Crab-like' giant mushroom

Afterwards we walked straight ahead in a different direction from the car park, a more wooded area full of oak and silver birch.  It was here we had our first site of the wild ponies that graze the area and couldn't resist the photo opportunity. The animals were very obliging and didn't seem to mind our presence at all. Buxton Heath is managed by Norfolk Wildlife Trust in partnership with the owners, Hevingham Fuel Allotment charity.  A wonderful reserve where the silver-studded blue butterfly was reintroduced in 1985 and where you can also find purple hairstreak and white admiral butterflies in summer.

Wild Konik ponies on Buxton Heath

Back at the car we had a quick coffee break and then drove north up the B1149 to Holt Country Park, where there is a large car par and toilet facilities.  You can walk through the lovely wooded area and eventually out on to Holt Lowes. The Lowes is a botanist's delight, with lots of rare plants, which are obviously scarce at this time of year.  However, it is still a picture in November with the last leaves of autumn hanging on the trees. The abundant heather is particularly tall as it vies with the gorse bushes and spruce saplings which are springing up everywhere. The walk on this bright, windy day certainly blew the cobwebs away and we thoroughly enjoyed it. This special reserve is managed by NWT in partnership with the owners, the Holt Lowes Trustees and is a wonderful reserve for dragonflies with over 20 species recorded including the rare keeled skimmer.

A view of Buxton Heath

Sadly, after visiting nearly 40 reserves this year, we have now come to the end of our mission. However, we have enjoyed every minute and will still have very many happy memories to keep. I am sure we will be visiting all our favourite reserves again in the future.  (Photos courtesy of  Maureen Simmons)



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Cranes and Hickling Broad

Common Crane Photo: David Tipling

It would be stretching it a bit to claim that that the cranes of east Norfolk are grateful that NWT has launched an appeal to buy the freehold of Hickling nature reserve, but they should be. Hickling played a role in the return of the crane to the UK as a breeding bird, and it continues to be a key site for them.

Two cranes came to Hickling on 13^th September 1979. It was these that prompted a phone call about the “Biggest bloody herons” that a local farmer had ever seen. Taking that call was John Buxton of the neighbouring Horsey Estate, which is where the cranes stayed, first attempted to nest in 1981 and raised the first crane chick in the UK for 400 years. Once a tightly held secret, this is now a well-known part of the cranes history, told by John and me in the book The Norfolk Cranes’ Story.  

It would, perhaps, have been a neater story if the cranes had bred at Hickling rather than Horsey. It was from Hickling that there is a written record of a payment for a ‘young Pyper crane’ in 1543. That is generally interpreted as the only – and last – indication of cranes breeding in East Anglia, until their recent return. That full circle was not completed until 2003 when cranes nested at Hickling again. They have been there ever since and Hickling remains the place to go to if you want to see cranes, not least as Horsey is a private estate. 

Hickling Broad by Richard Osbourne

There is a Hickling anecdote that didn’t make it into the book. Secrecy may have been the best way to safeguard the cranes in the early years, but they could be tricky birds to hide. This dilemma was illustrated by the visit of a group of conservation students to Hickling nature reserve in about 1985. Richard Hobbs, then the Trust’s Conservation Officer, was with them. John Buxton from Horsey was also there, with Christopher Cadbury from Hickling who was a generous benefactor of Hickling reserve. One of the students heard the sound of calling cranes coming from nearby Horsey. He pointed them out with some confidence as he came from Sweden and heard cranes there regularly. John and Christopher simply denied it, and the student looked perplexed. Richard, a leading figure in the local conservation scene, knew about the cranes’ return to Horsey, and after John and Christopher departed confirmed to the student that he was right.

I don’t get to Hickling as often as I should, but the place and its wildlife have a knack for creating memorable experiences. Inspiring your family to take up your interest in wildlife isn’t always easy. At last it seems to have worked with grown-up son Jim, and last winter we made that afternoon visit that you’ve probably done too, to Stubb Mill. The distant harriers over the marshes were great, and there was a grey blob that through a telescope was just about recognisable as a crane. But it was on the walk back to the car park that we had a proper crane encounter. Three came over in the half light, calling as they flew. I could almost hear the penny drop – now I get it about Dad and cranes.

I returned to Hickling in January, this time to meet the team planning a BBC Countryfile programme from east Norfolk. John Blackburn from NWT Hickling was there, and it was enjoyable to share the recce visit, including the sights and sounds of cranes on a gloomy day. The sun came out for filming in the following week, adding to a wonderful opportunity to showcase both the cranes’ story and Hickling.

Chris Durdin usually blogs about NWT ThorpeMarshes  but is also co-author of The Norfolk Cranes’ Story. More about the book on http://www.norfolkcranes.co.uk/

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Help us protect Hickling Broad – the heart of the Norfolk Broads

Please donate today:

•  Call: 01603 625540

• Text LAND26 TO 70070 with the amount of your donation (£)*
  

  *(Please  note that you may incur a standard network message charge based on your service provider rates).  

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The Ovington Ramblers: NWT Thorpe Marshes

The Ovington Ramblers continue their odyssey to NWT reserves in our 90th year 

A view across the water at NWT Thorpe Marshes

Our walk today took us to one of NET's newest reserves - Thorpe Marshes on the outskirts of Norwich. We couldn't believe how close it was to the city! It was almost surrounded by transport links with the train track to the North, the River Yare to the West and South and the Southern Bypass with its constant hum of traffic only a short distance away to the South and East. In spite of this, we were enthralled by a splendid wild life haven and this was on a wet and miserable day! St Andrew 's Broad at the centre of the reserve was larger than anticipated. Many birds were enjoying it including swans, black headed gulls,ducks, a coot and a lone cormorant. When we were observing the water we heard the song of a Cetti's warbler and also caught a glimpse of it in the scrub willows - difficult to understand how such a tiny bird can sing so loudly!

The trees today were really colourful clothed in shades of copper and gold. Some of the ash trees had lost all their leaves while other trees were quite green. We noticed several buddleia  trees leading down to the reserve- expect they entice many butterflies when in flower.The most interesting tree was an ash with a forked trunk. A large branch from one fork was growing into the side of the other fork forming a bridge across the centre and under this were clustered a great many snails. Presumably they'd taken up residence for the winter. As this was at least a metre above the ground we just wondered how word had spread about their desirable winter quarters? Other productive trees we saw were guelder roses bejewelled with berries as were hawthorn and ivy all providing food for the birds in the coming months.

Interpretation board at Thorpe Marshes

We saw the remains of several flowering plants including Eupatorium, great willow-herb, meadow sweet, water mint and on the drier path to the east of the reserve we noted ox-eye daisies and white dead-nettle in full bloom.




 

In spite of the inclement weather we thoroughly enjoyed our visit to this reserve. We found the information boards to be a great asset and we're looking forward to a return visit in the future. 

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Help us protect Hickling Broad – the heart of the Norfolk Broads

Please donate today:

•  Call: 01603 625540

• Text LAND26 TO 70070 with the amount of your donation (£)*
  

  *(Please  note that you may incur a standard network message charge based on your service provider rates).  

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The Ovington Ramblers: Hickling Broad

For NWT's 90th Anniversary, the Ovington Ramblers set themselves a challenge to visit our reserves.  With immaculate timing, they have just visited NWT Hickling Broad, the wildlife gem at the heart of the Broads where we have just launched a £1million land purchase appeal.

The Ovington Ramblers, by boat not foot!

What a wonderful morning on Hickling Broad!  The sun was shining in a clear blue sky and – quite unusual for this time of year – there was not a breath of wind.  The whole scene was one of peace and tranquility with just the sound of the rippling water along the side of the boat.

The Broads were hand-dug by local people in the Middle Ages as they excavated peat for use as fuel. 


Also, and not so well known, local potters in Heigham extracted clay to use as their material for making earthenware – hence Potter Heigham.

Richard was steering the boat at the same time giving lots of interesting information, whilst Dave with his binoculars pointed out the wildlife we could otherwise have missed.  One of the first points of interest was the tiny island where Emma Turner lived on her houseboat during the early 1900s.  This pioneering wildlife photographer could spend the whole day lying camouflaged on the ground in order to get a perfect photo, often with the birds walking all over her in her stillness.  She took the first ever photo of a bittern which was thought to be extinct in the UK.

Another important pioneer at that time was Jim Vincent, the son of a local gamekeeper.  From the age of 16 he was employed to manage the shoot for a group of influential MPs and ornithologists.  He was also tasked with attracting and protecting other birds and wildlife in the area, particular the marsh harrier which were also nationally extinct as breeding pairs.

The love and dedication of these two people in protecting the rare birds helped to pave the way for the enormous variety of birds and wildlife we see here today.

Young swans at Hickling Broad

During the trip we passed a large group of young swans who stay together until around 5/6 years old, when they reach maturity and leave to find a mate. This year there were about 50-60 youngsters in the group. We saw lots of marsh harriers flying low over the reed beds, plus great crested grebes, cormorants, reed buntings, tits, and herons.

A glimpse of a chinese water deer

 

We stopped off at various hides and watched large flocks of teal with a few shellducks and shovelers.  We also saw a chinese water deer grazing at the water's edge.

We moored, crossed an unusual ligger bridge and walked to the 60' Tree Tower.  The magnificent view from the top took in nearly all the 600 hectares of Hickling Broad and you could see the sand dunes of the coast along the horizon.   A pair of cranes were spotted in the distance.  Apparently, on one summer's day per year all the purple hairstreak butterflies emerge and cover the oak treetops all around the tower, providing an awe inspiring sight. 

All too soon, we were on our way back but were still lucky enough to see six bearded tits flitting through the reeds. This was an excellent way to see Hickling Broad but there are also good walks taking in all the hides and observation points.

Thoroughly recommended!

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Help us protect Hickling Broad – the heart of the Norfolk Broads

Please donate today:

•  Call: 01603 625540

• Text LAND26 TO 70070 with the amount of your donation

• Visit our website: www.norfolkwildlifetrust.org.uk

• Or, Just Giving: www.justgiving.com/campaigns/charity/norfolkwildlifetrust/hickling   (Please  note that you may incur a standard network message charge based on your service provider rates).  

 

The Ovington Ramblers: Barton Broad and Alderfen Broad

Once again we visited two NWT reserves on the same day as they are both only a short car journey from Neatishead and about 10 minutes apart.

Greater Tussock Sedge

The northern end of Barton Broad is approached through the pretty village of Barton Turf.  There is only a short footpath walk here, so we drove on to the car park on Long Road at the southern end.  We then followed the well laid footpath to the board walk trail.  We took our time walking this circular trail around Heron's Carr as there was so much to see, with lots of useful information along the way.  The plant life took on gigantic proportions as we walked past giant Royal Ferns, enormous rushes and sedge tussocks 2-3' high.  The sedge thrives in the damp conditions and the tussocks provide multi-level homes for a variety of spiders and insects.

Halfway round there is a platform giving excellent views across the broad, where we watched lots of cormorants sunning themselves in the autumn sunshine.

Back at the car we had a quick coffee and home-made biscuits (courtesy of Joyce) and then it was off to AlderfenBroad.  A long rough track from Threehammer Common leads down to an excellent little car park. Unfortunately there are no NWT signs from the road and this track could easily be overlooked. However, we are glad to have found it as it proved a most enjoyable and varied walk. 

Part of the walk is beside a stream, along a grassy woodland path which leads round to a damper area of reeds, pink hemp agrimony, sphagnum moss and greater tussock sedge. There were lots of dragonflies all around us, with some actually landing on our heads! Good views across the broad can be seen but be very careful as you near the water's edge because the “ground” is actually not earth but feels like a raft of dead vegetation with water beneath. Beware! 

At the beginning of the year, we decided to try to walk round all the NWT Reserves in the Trust's 90^th year.  I believe we have so far managed to walk about three-quarters of the reserves, so are on track to achieve our goal by the end of December.

Common Darter Dragonfly

A travel diary of my trip around NWT reserves in South Norfolk

David Thompson, NWT Trustee

Start date: 10 May 2016
Return date: 13 May 2016
Approximate distance cycled/walked: 125 miles

Tuesday  
It seemed like a good idea: to combine a staycation with a bit of birding, exercise, and getting to know NWT nature reserves better in the southern half of the county. May was selected as propitious. I would travel by bicycle and stay at inns on an itinerary starting and ending at my home in Old Costessey.

A good idea, then, except that rain had set in firmly by 9am, and my departure was delayed by the discovery that my telescope tripod –strapped to my back in a triangular back-pack - started knocking on my cycle helmet as soon as I pulled out of the drive.

I finally arrived at the Wayland Wood car park, wet through. I changed into walking boots, set off pushing my bike around the reserve (bear in mind that I had paniers laden with luggage - an easy target for opportunists, if left unattended). I bumped into two NWT employees endeavouring to get their vehicle out of a muddy rut. They had been removing copious quantities of ash from the burning of coppiced timber: no market, apparently, because the ‘ash’ can be contaminated with refuse – a bittersweet consequence of public access? I saw a few others, mostly dog-walkers, with dogs ‘on’ and ‘off’ leads.

Purple orchid

Anyway: Wayland Wood: a calm after the (rain) storm. Bird song, rather than bird flight. Chiffchaff, Thrush, Robin, Chaffinch, a pair of Blackcaps together with ethereal sightings of Mistle Thrush and Treecreeper, and a Buzzard easing itself off its perch into a gentle glide. Magical! Of course, there were also the tail-end Bluebells, and Purple Orchids.

I finally reached Thompson Common, but couldn’t get my ‘push-bike’ through the narrow gate intoo the NWT-controlled areas. So instead I took the Pingo trail to the south of the Common, eventually coming across an NWT sign to Thompson Water. A mysteriously quiet and secluded water body. Warblers chirping everywhere. Mostly, it was the sight of coot dotted about on the water on their nests, which was special. Swans, too, and a couple of Canada Gees flying in, making a lot of noise. This seemed like a natural place, and a cuckoo heralded its presence before I left.


Wednesday

It is clear to me that the secrets of the Breckland Reserves reveal themselves reluctantly. Hockham Fen, for instance: although only a few kilometres only from Chequers Inn where I had stayed, it took half an hour and conversations with several dog walkers finally to discover what I think must have been the ‘Viewing Point’ referred to in the Reserves Handbook. That said, however, the view over the mire against a misty backdrop of trees, was very tranquil – a perfect setting for the ducks, geese, swans and egrets that gradually revealed themselves.

Thence to East Wretham Heath. Access to the reserve areas is via specially large cattle gates, thank goodness! I could get my bike in (to push it) to the Hide. What struck me at East Wretham was the extraordinary number of corvids – black dots all over the heath and noisy crowds in the plantation. The sound of a cuckoo, and warblers near the hide, but not much else in evidence.

I took the Drove Road west as it seemed the most direct route connecting with the road to Lynford. Quite difficult riding – constantly up and down, deep ruts, puddles and soft ground. Cuckoos en route.

Weeting Visitor Centre: arriving ca. 3.30pm – at last the rainfall seems to be over -  bedraggled, hot, wet, desperately thirsty, and – I fear –wiffy! Sophie, the Centre Manager, gave me some pointers, allowed me to lock up my bike securely, and off I set. I was struck by touches like the raked paths through the trees to the hides and, especially, to the Forest Walk, which I took.

Saw two Stone Curlew from the West Hide, and was pleased to be able to show them to the ladies already in the hide through the telescope I had carried on my back from Norwich - some justification for the effort. An iPhone was the only camera but an attachment allowed me to use it in conjunction with the telescope. Visibility was poor and the floor of the hide prone to vibration, so the photographic results were correspondingly poor.

My most interesting spotting announced itself first as a loud song in the bush next to the visitor centre. I poked my head slowly into the bush, as the song continued. This was a lower register, more varied song than the Goldcrest. Finally, at 1.5m distance, I could clearly see the greenish back, and the yellow-orange head-stripe... a Firecrest. A UK first for me!


Thursday
 
The ride from Thetford to East Harling via the Forest was delightful: Forestry Commission Forest Holiday Camps from time to time. The final leg via Quidenham to New Buckenham was positively alive with yellowhammers, singing their song (sometimes without ‘cheese’) and regularly displaying on the bushes beside the road.

New Buckehham Common: thankfully, possible to push a bike around the Common, and to negotiate the cattlegate at the crossing over the stream. I explored the north side only, including the main pond, buttercups, orchids (including the green-winged orchid) and various water plants. Saxifrange and Cowslips but not many showing birds. Linnet? A pair of Greylag Geese looking very much at home, and an egret flew in just as I was leaving.


Friday   

My route to Lower Wood, Ashwellthorpe took me NE along lanes between low hedgerows and directly into the wind, which made the going difficult. On one leg, I was again accompanied by yellowhammers.
 
At the Wood, I was able to get my bike through the gate, and do the ‘nature trail’ circuit –Wild garlic (Ramsons) everywhere, along with bluebells and early purple orchid. Blackcap and chiffchaff singing. A great spotted woodpecker and maybe a flycatcher. Evidence of coppicing, and – of course – the area of new hornbeam planting protected by an electric fence.

From Lower Ashwellthorpe Wood, I cycled northeast to Hethel Church to view the country’s smallest nature reserve; Hethel Old Thorn. The interpretation panel was partly obscured by (what I assume was) cow parsley.

So that concluded my visits to eight NWT sites, and all that remained was the cycle ride home. I would definitely consider doing it again, but next time making enquiries beforehand about ease of access for bicycles (for pushing, not cycling). I would also reconsider my method of carrying the tripod!